Beaufort London Acrasia bottle courtesy of the model
… Vpon a mattress of Roses she was layd,
As faint by warmth, or dight to nice sin,
And was arayd, or quite disarayd,
All in a vele of silke and siluer skinny,
That hid no whit her alablaster pores and skin,
However quite shewd extra white, if extra would possibly bee:
Extra subtile net Arachne can’t spin,
Nor the positive nets, which oft we wouen see
Of scorched deaw, don’t in th’aire extra evenly flee.
… in her left hand a Cup of gold she held,
And along with her proper the riper fruit did attain,
Whose sappy liquor, that with fulnesse sweld,
Into her cup she scruzd, with daintie breach
Of her positive fingers, with out fowle empeach,
That so faire wine-presse made the wine extra candy:
Thereof she vsd to giue to drinke to every,
Whom passing by she occurred to fulfill:
It was her guise, all Straungers goodly so to greet. Edmund Spenser, The Faerie Queene, Ebook II, Canto XII
His coming is introduced by vibrant trumpets of lemon, sharp as a rapier’s level. As he advances, daylight gleams from his silver defend and the bitter shimmer of bergamot surrounds him. He’s Guyon, come for vengeance towards the witch Acrasia. However the enchantress, whose very identify means give up to temptation in an odd mixture of Latin and Greek, lies ready on her mattress of roses. As Guyon approaches the Bower of Bliss, overhung with golden grapes and thick with flowers, the fragrance of roses mixes with wine. Candy tune beckons, and as Guyon follows its supply, he finds himself earlier than the loveliest of lady. She is Acrasia, embodiment of intemperance, antithesis to all that’s holy – and namesake to a superb, bracing new perfume from Beaufort London that brews a mixture of potent rose and casky wine with keenly masculine notes.
Acrasia by John Melhuish Strudwick, 1888, Leicester Galleries
Edmund Spenser’s The Faerie Queene, maybe the best epic poem of the English language, was printed in 1590 in tribute to Elizabeth I, then on the peak of her reputation as scourge of the Armada. An intensive allegory of human virtues that attracts on Arthurian legend (and alludes to up to date politics), the poem follows the adventures of a number of knights as they battle varied evils as Spencer affords his template for ethical instruction. Ebook II is the legend of Sir Guyon, protector of wronged girls; surpassing courageous, steadfastly ethical, godly, intelligent (if a tad impetuous), his sword a-ready towards spellcasters. Within the closing chapter of Guyon’s story, he meets his nemesis, the attractive witch Acrasia, within the Bower of Bliss.
Sir Guyon, illustration by Walter Crane, 1897
The strain between want for earthly pleasures and ethical fortitude that lies on the coronary heart of Guyon’s story gives the trajectory for Beaufort London Acrasia. The perfume unfolds with two contrasting accords that keep it up individually for its first half, lastly merging within the fragrance’s second half. The primary is Guyon’s melody, which opens the perfume with piercing lemon hoisted like a regular by soapy musk and clear, bitter bergamot. The second, coming ahead within the coronary heart, is Acrasia’s concord; narcotic pink wine, incense and, latterly, rose. These chords are progressively bridged by velvety inexperienced geranium, vanilla and cedar in an interaction of masculine and female notes that persists by dry-down.
Spraying Acrasia for the primary time brings an odd, alluring mixture of astringent lemon and dusty pink wine that units the scene for the enchantments that comply with. As the 2 major accords detangle, lemon and bergamot push ahead boldly underlined by clear musk. However fairly quickly, there’s a whisper of vanilla, a stir of candy spice. An intoxicating aroma of outdated wine – woody, musty and raisiny like aged Rioja – attracts near the citrus. The mixture of forgotten wine and daring, vibrant citrus is among the most disconcerting however addictive openings I’ve discovered since Charenton Macerations’ Eye, Hatshepsut, and has me refreshing the highest notes a number of instances simply to resume the expertise.
Crimson Thriller by Faye Mozingo, picture by way of Artistic Commons
It’s half an hour later. The 2 chords contact palms then half, then circle, then half. The wine word and lemon dominate. Then, incense floats throughout the bottom in a low thrum and, progressively, rose and geranium fill the air with quiet music. The principle notes dance round one another, by no means fairly merging. Furry, animalic odors edge in and candy spices are dropped into the chalice of wine proffered by Acrasia’s silken hand.
Probably the most placing issues about Acrasia’s building is how even-handed the load of the notes stays all through. Incense, which normally provides density, by no means overwhelms its fellows whereas discovering fast synergy with the rose. Now a phrase about that rose: within the moments following its arrival, that is no fluffy, jammy blossom however a green-tinged and distant flower that refuses totally to open. However later, when the cinnamon has softened her edges and the incense has moved in, the rose turns into smoke-tinged, smudgy, buzzing a counter concord that is still fixed however seductively, virtually maddeningly, elusive.
Beaufort London Acrasia is a stunning departure from the Beaufort array of smoldering canon hearth, cade-filled smuggler’s dens, and creaking wooden shipboards, and jogs my memory of how imaginatively this history-steeped home can deal with floral notes. Spenser’s Guyon could win the day; however in Beaufort’s telling, Acrasia has the final phrase.
Notes: Bergamot, Sicilian lemon, pink wine, cinnamon, geranium, incense, jasmine, rose, amber, cedarwood, musk, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver.
Disclaimer: Pattern of Beaufort London Acrasia kindly supplied by Indigo Perfumery. My opinions, as at all times, are my very own.
Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Beaufort London Acrasia courtesy of Indigo Perfumery
Because of the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we’ve got a 50 ml bottle of Beaufort London Acrasia for one registered reader within the U.S .ONLY To be eligible, please go away a remark describing what attracts you to Acrasia primarily based on Lauryn’s evaluation, whether or not you have got tried any Beaufort London fragrances Draw closes 3/16/2023.
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